We choose two colors of thread to make the headbands and used two #3 darning needles. Headbands need to be sewn either at the kettle stich or below it. For the first band, I chose to prepunch the holes using the same holes used for the kettle stich. I thought this would make my life easier, alas, it did not.
The little slips of paper you see sticking out mark the center of each signature. To sew the headbands, the book is placed upright in a press and tipped toward you for easier working.
I found sewing these to be really difficult and ended up with blisters on my thumb and index finger. I think it would get easier with time and after my hands toughen up a bit. Perhaps going back to the guitar will help with that. Anyway, the first thread, in my case, the gold one starts the sewing by going out through the spine from the first signature and wraps over. The second thread then goes out just beneath the lining and wraps around the outside. 
I wish that I could describe this better. The second thread, the green one, is used to anchor the gold. The way they wrap around each other forms a bead on the inside of the band. The second time the gold thread would go over the band, I would hold it taught on the left side. I would then take the green thread over the gold, go out under the band and then over the top again, forming a new loop over the band and tying the gold down. The same pattern was repeated with each color change.
I did much better with my second headband than I did the first. I found that prepunching the holes did not help. I think part of the problem was that I didn’t trim this book after gluing, so my kettle stich was a lot further down in the book than it otherwise would have been. Also, rounding the spine, made it a lot harder to find the holes again.
Anyway, every couple of stiches, it’s important to go through the signature again to anchor the band to the book and to help shape the band to the book.
Once the headbands were sewn on each end, we cut and pasted MBM paper over the spine in the same manner that we had the japanese tissue paper. This helps to even out the spine and cover the new sewing before the leather is attached.
Sewing the headbands
March 29, 2007 by bibliocat
I was just directed here from the handmade book comm on live journal Thank you for posting the above I am looking forward to trying it out.
It’s been a while since I visited your blog, and I’m enjoying the “retrospective.” Nice work! I know how hard these can be to make — I’ve yet to sew one on that I’m happy with. Thanks for continuing to share your bookmaking experiences.
Hi! Nice photos nice work!
A question :
>>To sew the headbands, the book is placed upright in a press and tipped toward you for easier working.
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Do you a book tougher in the press? How do you open it then?
My first headbands were sewn only last night at a Bookbinding Class I’m in here in Melbourne! I used embroidery thread (can’t remember what type of thread) but I’m going to find a thicker one for the next few. It looked pretty OK to me, and seemed to work very well for strength. I’ll case in the book tonight after work, and bring it back to work on Monday for labelling.
At least I can make my first mistakes with a new technique on books I have to bind at work! (SArmy Heritage Centre)
Great pictures of the process! Thank you.
Thanks for this post, I have been to my first Headband sewing class, your photographs are very clear.